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  • Fear and Driving in Italy

    Sort of a roundup of the trip I just took. Fascinating for the most part.

    The title

    Borrowed and assumed, but that's life. Italian drivers have a reputation for being the worst drivers in the world. The guide book I'd been lent suggested that this was undeserved, but that the drivers there didn't win any medals for safe driving.

    This is actually regional. We started in the north of Italy and worked out that it wasn't too insane. Heading south, it became fucking mental.

    "I know, I'm driving a big truck, fully laden, and there's a car approaching in the passing lane. Great - when it's ten feet from me, I'll indicate to go into their lane and then do it to allow the passenger to scream like a girl!"

    "Hey, there's still some of the slip road on left, so I'll use both lanes until it goes!"

    "So many lanes, which one to choose? I know, I'll use both! For a mile or two!"

    Inside Rome, it was worse. We didn't drive in Rome.


    Day one

    Wednesday - flight landed at Marco Polo airport in Italy. Fortunately, my travelling companion - a chum by the name of Cab - had brought a satnav device. One hire car collection later, we headed towards Magliono where the Hotel Style was located. Three stars, so should be reasonable? It wasn't too bad, but it had charming peeling wallpaper. Turns out that the star rating in Italy is based on available facilities, such as TV in the room and air conditioning.

    Air conditioning good!

    Turns out that the phrase book I'd been lent was good, but most of my Italian was pointing at the menu and looking for numbers on the bill. Thus began Cab's quest to consume every Pizza Margherita on the continent (it can have alternate spellings, but it's the cheese, tomato, and basil version).

    Legally speaking, any place serving food in Italy has to provide a receipt, and the patron has to take it. Bizarre!

    Day two

    Drove down towards Venice, parked at a place recommended by the guide book, and caught a ferry to the main islands of Venice there (very reasonable - fifteen euros for a return ticket), and very shortly after we were in Venice and sweating. We also heard a large group of Germans singing the 'oom pah pah' song. Novel greeting.

    Venice is incredible. Dead ends, bridges over smaller canals, and even their own leaning tower! Meh - they built on water, so they got a leaning tower as well. I saw gondolas, I saw canals, and I saw a whole array of impressive architecture. There were also many, many stalls selling tat - stuff aimed at tourists.

    St Mark's square needs to be seen to be believed. However, do not sit down to eat there. It's semi-reasonably priced by the standards of tourist traps, but then the bill comes and there are additions - a supplement for sitting there on top of the menu, and a supplement for listening to the live music. Stuff you didn't realise. We didn't worry about that too much as we'd filled up on gelatto (Italian ice cream).

    We considered a gondola ride, but as two heterosexual chaps we figured that seventy-five euros for a fifty minute 'romantic' ride was a touch excessive.

    We got lost, several times. The tickets for the ferry included a map, but it didn't tell you which of the bridges and alleys were dead ends. Cab has a Google phone with a compass on - he never thought that he'd need that feature, but it turned out to be very useful indeed.

    We sat down at one place to eat, about a half-mile from St Mark's. Cab hit the Margherita Pizza again, whereas I went for an escalope in white wine sauce. I also asked for coke. What size did I want? Well, let's just say I was thirsty and asked for the biggest size they had.

    "Grande?" the waiter asked with an impressed look on his face. When it came out, I was impressed. I'm guessing it was between 1.5 and two litres in one glass. Cab went for a normal size.

    "Coke pour homme," I told him, pointing at mine. "Coke pour femme," I added, pointing at his normal-sized glass.

    I could have easily had another. I had my backpack on and I was sweating far more than I should have had any right to. Unfortunately, the guide book (rough guide to Italy) that a chum at work had lent me was in there, and I think I owe him a new copy due to 'water damage'.

    It's worth noting that when you get lost in Venice on a hot day and make it back to the return spot with a half-hour to spare (after taking far too many wrong turns), you don't really mind spending three euros on a bottle of cola.

    The evening found us eating in a restaurant and looking at the guide book to see where we should stay next. We'd only booked two nights at the hotel.


    Day three

    We drove towards Gardaland, our next destination. The area is around the Lago Del Garda, a large lake - and we wanted to hit the theme parks there. It's close to Verona, so we started hunting out prices of local places. After a few quotes, we hit the googlephone and laptop to book online, and saved ourselves a damned fortune!

    We got to our hotel and checked in, and then headed to one complex of a theme park - Canevaworld/cineworld or something like that - for the afternoon. Cab had bought two hats in Venice. He got a third for free for buying two drinks.

    They had a 'Rambo' show in live action, which was fairly entertaining. A U-boat simulation ended up in several people without the optional ponchos getting soaked. A 'magma2' ride ended up with me getting wet through (sort of a truck ride through deliberately hostile terrain), which soaked the phrase book (the other one a chum at work had lent me).

    It was a fairly reasonable place, but I'd spotted a Medieval Times outside, so I bought the meal for the night. As soon as the park closed, that place opened - had never been to one before (don't think there are any in the UK), and I'd seen one in a film before. I even bought the photo that was taken as we went in. I have to agree with Cab - the king and I were separated at birth. He got to stand next to the princess. The resemblance wasn't uncanny.

    "Eat with your fingers and don't throw anything into the arena" we were told. That's when they provided us with heavy pewter plates.

    There was some pretty good horsemanship on display, and our knight was doing fairly well for a while, but then he got knocked out of the tournament. Cab was certain that the dastardly black knight who came in later to bugger up all the tournament was our guy in a new costume, as were a four-pack of chaps from the colonies. We all cheered on the black knight with some gusto at this point.

    He may have been defeated, but we cheered him on anyway, and Cab's intuition was correct when he was finally unmasked.

    More to come.

    Rapscallion

  • #2
    Day four

    We headed to the largest amusement park in Italy - Gardaland! It had it's own logo people and everything.

    Unfortunately, it doesn't come close to the standards of similar attempted sites in the US and UK, according to Cab. Sixty minutes to get on the best rides, and they're not up to his standards. Still, it had its moments.

    --

    "Here comes lunch!"

    "When I'm sat next to you?"

    --

    "I wish I could speak German!"

    "So you could swear better?"

    "Oh yes - whoooooo..... ulp!"

    --

    We ended up roller-coaster-outed after the second day. I think part of the mistake we made was that we ended up there on the Saturday. Damned busy.

    Amusingly enough, we got turned the wrong direction when driving around, and found a back road with a tree still growing through the tarmac, perhaps a quarter of the way into the road. We're still scratching our heads over that one. Photo attached.


    Day five

    Cab's not an early riser by choice, as was becoming very apparent. He'll get up when he has to, but he's on holiday, so he's sleeping in. Me - I can see a whole new day of exploring out there!

    By about noon, we ended up at the Lago Del Garda (Garda Lake) to see what all the fuss was about. Scenic, but there was a distinct lack of roller coasters. Lots of boats on some very clear water, though, and if you're in mind for a holiday where you're walking around looking at scenery etc then it's highly recommended.

    We headed on to Pisa. We found the hotel easily enough, a renovated monastery, but we started to get the impression that that Pisa was - for the most part - a shithole. It's one of those old towns that has pretty much little in the way of redeeming features other than one main attraction.

    When searching for food in the evening, we parked up and wandered off to find somewhere to eat. There was a sign on a road leading off from the car park reading 'rudo e crudo'. We glanced at this and then at each other, but decided that with our limited command of the local language we'd better steer well clear.

    Coming back from a reasonable pizza, we saw another sign saying this, so thought we'd better at least wander past. We still don't know what it was, but it looked a bit like a brothel. We kept going past.


    Day six

    We found a car park reasonably close to the 'field of miracles' where the famous tower is, along with about three other impressive buildings. The others don't lean. We were accosted by a seller of tat in the car park who had nothing we wanted, but offered to look after our car for money. No menaces, but...

    Past more sellers of tat to tourists, we grabbed an overpriced drink or two and then got some tickets to go up the tower. Make sure that if this is your intent that you get the tickets as early as possible. They only let a few people in at once and there's a good wait.

    The tower itself leans at about four degrees, but it feels like much, much more. It's made of marble and a triumphal monument to shoddy civil engineering. The marble is heavily worn by footsteps, and thus somewhat slippier than is good for someone who's not good with heights (me).

    When you get to the top, you're at the bell level. However, there's a level above there. A scottish lady had made it up, but was worse with heights than me - she sat down after a minute of refusing to move and ended up going down step by step on her bum. I could understand where she was coming from. It was distinctly unnerving.

    The rest of the Piazza dei Miracoli is fairly scenic, but it's swarming with people struggling to get that all-important shot of someone 'holding up the tower'. To say I was scornful of this is an understatement. Cab decided he had to have a shot of him holding up the tower. He would.

    I got very snap happy with photos of people doing this from afar. They look silly.

    More to come.

    Rapscallion
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    • #3
      Hmm after your description of the drivers there, I think you should be a little braver about trying to drive over here.
      "smacked upside the head by the harsh of daylight" - Tori Amos "The Beauty of Speed"


      a sucking chest wound is merely mother nature's way of telling you to slow down - Arm

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      • #4
        Not if you're in the vehicle. Those Dodge Caravans home in on you like there's nothing left to live for!

        Rapscallion

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        • #5
          Day seven

          We arrived at our hotel in Rome after realising just how lunatic the drivers can be in the region.

          Actually, it's worse than that in the city, but...

          The hotel itself was on the very north of the suburbs. It was very much on the wrong side of the tracks, I fear. A few alcoholics surrounded the fairly decent local restaurant, and it made us a touch nervous after dark. There was a very dubious painting of a young lad with a strange smile hugging his goat while wearing ... no clothes at all above my bed. I know the nakedness is supposed to be a symbol of innocence, but...

          However, the quality of the graffiti was excellent, and the directions from the hotel to the city were outstanding. I actually mean that last part genuinely. Rome's public transport system is a delight. One euro for a ticket to the 'terminus' where you can hop onto the metro underground line A, and four euros for a ticket that allows unlimited travel on most of the public transport within the area.

          Almost every station is named after the local monuments. They're all within staggering distance of the stations. Quite a few people beg on the trains, sometimes with accordions. Be cautious. Remember, you can't see them.

          Day eight

          We headed into Rome and got onto the Metro Line A (there's a B line as well, and they intersect). We headed off to the Ottavia station as we wanted to see the Vatican. Usual touristy thing - get out of the subway and look around gormlessly.

          "Speak English?"

          Someone selling tours. We took him up on this. We're glad we did.

          Tours are hit-and-miss. This one was led by a chap called Jason who took us around the Vatican - a tour gets you past the queues relatively quickly. He's the sort of guy who has a passion for his work and isn't just going through the motions. There's a fair amount of expensive statuary (often without their willies) hanging around, and he explained the really interesting bits. The museum itself is fascinating, if crowded (and this was relatively quiet due to the recession), and I took loads of snaps. We ended up in the Sistine chapel (not allowed to take photos). The worrying thing is that it's not actually that impressive. The library corridors we'd gone through to get there were far better. Maybe it's just the sheer height.

          The tour finished after this, and Jason let us go, telling us that he did private tours on an evening, even for just two people. He does it for the love of it. You can tell. Cab and I took him up on this, and we were the only ones. We're glad we did - it was incredible.

          He walked us around a load of Rome for a couple of hours - various churches, the Pantheon, and several areas that most tourists don't even notice. I'm afraid I wasn't the perfect patron, since I did some classical studies and archaeology at school over two decades back (ouch). I'll put up a zip of the photos later, as I will of the others, but it's damned impressive. There are many places within fairly easy walking distance of the other, and he managed to point things out all along the way. I'm not going to spoil things for people through text, but I learned quite a few things there.

          I said I'd promote him here, so here's a link to his site.

          Jason's tour site

          His cell number is 349 0904826

          It's well worth it.

          I even gave a spare card of his to some fellow Brits I met in Pompeii, and they said they'd look him up.

          Rapscallion

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          • #6
            Quoth Rapscallion View Post
            Inside Rome, it was worse. We didn't drive in Rome.
            Bastardized quote:

            "Those with their eyes fixed on Heaven often drive into overly-furry site admins on Earth."
            The Rich keep getting richer because they keep doing what it was that made them rich. Ditto the Poor.
            "Hy kan tell dey is schmot qvestions, dey is makink my head hurt."
            Hoc spatio locantur.

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            • #7
              Day nine

              This had been our last night at the hotel, so we left our car on the road outside and went into Rome once more to browse around. We intended coming back fairly soonish, but we got off the metro outside to Colisseum and - after eating the worst pizza in Italy (Cab has done his research thoroughly, so don't eat at the place immediately outside the metro station there - and the carbonara was shite as well) did our usual 'gormless tourist' act. Within seconds, a tour was offered. Perhaps bouyed by our previous day's touring, we made the mistake of going on this one.

              The only real advantage was getting through the lines faster. We had a lady of Thai origin (we think) take us in and talk to us in broken English. I knew most of it already, and it was quite boring. After about a half hour, she let us loose and told us the second (free) half of the tour began outside the exit in nearly two hours. People had already begun to leave the group by then.

              It was baking hot. We wandered around, finding interesting items that the guide hadn't mentioned (such as the cooler internal areas with the museum bits and pieces) to occupy ourselves with. I went through loads of pictures on this place. No refreshment stands were available inside, so when we went out about a half-hour before the second tour, we were more than happy to pay four euros for a single scoop of gelatto. They also don't like to advertise their toilets over there, but since it was scorching we didn't really need them.

              The free tour was conducted by Gregory (I think), a guy who liked me at first when I was able to answer one or two questions about Domitian's palace. However, later on I think I got annoying.

              "Hadrian, the guy famous for the wall, had a son called Antoninus. Anyone heard of him?"

              "Aye - didn't he make a second wall about a hundred miles north of his father's?"

              I could tell I'd sort-of spoiled his big surprise, but I kept going.

              "It didn't keep garrisonned for too long, though - they gave up and retreated to Hadrian's."

              Most people don't know about the Antonine Wall. I did. I spoiled the surprise.

              I should feel guilty, especially as he was a fairly decent guy, but I was living in the footprints of the legends that I'd learned about at school.

              We left the area far after we'd intended and got back to the car. We set off and headed down towards Naples, stopping in at Anzio on the way. Within the last few years, Cab had learned that his grandfather had a brother who'd died in WW2, and the grave was there. Took a bit of time to find the war cemetary, but it's very well maintained and we found the grave easily enough. Very scenic place, though the town itself is one that apparently only makes and exports pizza for its economy.

              We finished the night by finding our hotel at Torre Del Greco - or at least the Via Litoranea. It's sort of on the sea front near Naples, with Herculaneum and Pompeii in reasonable proximity, along with the looming volcano in the background. It was after dark and with a few scares from the local drivers - despite the satnav. However, we got there and immediately found that the locals dump their profuse quantities of rubbish on the pavements every night.

              However, within minutes of leaving the hotel we found a reasonable restaurant with one of the surliest waiters in existence. We played the point and pay game to get food, Cab doing his Margherita special as usual.

              Air conditioning - essential!

              To be continued.

              Rapscallion

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              • #8
                Day ten

                I played a game of point and grunt with the rather well-spoken young lady at the front desk to get directions to "Pompeii Scavi" (there's a modern Pompeii, so don't go there). Regular white minibuses drives along the front to and from the local train station. A fifteen-minute ride around the Circumvesuviana (literally translates as 'around Vesuvius') got us to the station. At the hotel and all the way around the track we were treated to the view of this huge volcano.

                No wonder it buried four towns in the region.

                More graffiti all over the trains - sort of an export industry for them.

                We did the 'look slightly baffled' routine and got accosted by a guide. He turned out to be fairly mediocre, all done and said, but he got us through the queues faster and gave us some information.

                I had my backpack on with several bottles of water. It was hot and we were about to go around an archaeological dig, so refreshments were going to be thin on the ground, right?

                Got talking to a family on our tour - two parents and one of each children in their teens. We go a quarter of the way around the world and meet someone from the next town. I bet they felt the same.

                The tour began in the scorching heat. It's damned impressive. Got to see quite a few plaster casts of the gaps left by the bodies. On several occasions we got to see just how much volcanic ash had been removed, and it's a considerable amount. No idea where that all went to.

                Our guide seemed to take a particular delight in pointing out the phallic representations in architecture and even - at one point - carved into the roadway. Erections on the floor pointed the way for sailors to the brothel - fun fact for the day! Don't need to speak the local language to pay for sex.

                That particular philosophy carried on to the brothel itself. The inhabitants were, like many of the era, particularly short by our standards. The stone beds (assumedly they had mattresses on them) were far too short for an average-sized modern person to sleep on. Above the entrance to each room, though, was a fresco of the particular acts performed by the girl inside, and according to the guide they were slaves and cheap to rent. He took a certain delight in telling us this.

                After a while, he took payment and left us to wander by ourselves, so we did. He did offer to take our photos for us, which was a nice touch. However, at the start of the tour he did say to ask any questions, and then cut off anyone who did. Interesting style.

                Several of the houses are in phenomenal condition. We got to glimpse archaeologists working on another area, and according to the maps there are huge expanses that are still to be touched. Some of the statues rivalled Michaelangelo's work.

                Most of the really good art found is now in Naples museum, but replicas were left around and about.

                I said there were no refreshments? There weren't any handy burger bars or anything like that, but at most intersections they'd restored the large basins with fountains, and fresh water was freely available. I just kept refilling my water bottle. By the end of the trip, I counted up and worked out I'd drunk over an Imperial gallon in about five hours.

                Remember that backpack? That helped to retain the heat and sweat on my back. When we got back to the hotel, there was a large yellow patch stained on the back of my white T-shirt. Sweat had crystallised to make a dark yellow mark that visible - quite impressive.

                I'll get around to uploading some pictures later, since mere words won't suffice to convey how impressive this place was. I'd learned about this place more than two decades previously. I was happy as a pig in shit. I even got to explain a few things to others on our tour group, such as how Caligula got his name and why he was regarded as being batshit insane.

                Straight outside the excavations are plenty of food and tat stores. Going in at about noon, Cab broke his fast with the second-worst pizza he'd ever had (Margherita, naturally), and on the way out had a rather better version from elsewhere. The tat, though, was beyond compare.

                A four-pack of AA batteries for ten euros? Not a bargain. Four fridge magnets of the frescos from the brothel for ten euros? Bargain! My fridge is adorned with three of these - my mother got the clean one. Italy is very religious, though, and there were several ornaments involving Jesus standing in his robes and holding out his arms either for a hug or to welcome people. Possibly both. Pompeiian architecture and the fascination they had with willies meant that straight in front of this row of figures was a row of erect penises, the testicles of which had wings growing out of them. I was baffled, but assumed that these were representing something they'd found inside and that we'd not seen, but also that the tat sellers had a naughty sense of humour.

                The young ladies on the tour groups were particularly fascinating. I guessed the young ladies from the colonies to be about fourteen-years-old or so, and as some of them were staring at the statues of Priapus (god of having a large todger) I made an attempt to work out what they were thinking.

                "In for a disappointment, scared, both..."

                It was a damned-fine day, and I can heartily recommend it. I did find that some of the finer gravel made things somewhat slippy underfoot. We covered a large tract of land, so be prepared to walk for miles, and when you're in there you only need one bottle for water. In summer take sun cream - very little shelter.

                I did see one lady from the colonials telling her children not to drink from those as the pipes the Romans used had been lead, but that there must be somewhere around here to buy a safe drink... Yeah, they replaced the pipes, lady, and even if they didn't then it would require constant exposure to build up any in your system. There were no other refreshments available.

                Back to the hotel and then to the nearby restaurant (avoiding rubbish) for Cab to have his third Margherita of the day (no surprise).

                Rapscallion

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                • #9
                  Sounds like Raps hasn't seen the original Italian Job. Why? Well, other than seeing the Minis roar around Turin, there's an important bit of information...

                  "In this country, they drive on the wrong side of the road"

                  Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. --Enzo Ferrari

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                  • #10
                    Been a long time since I saw that film, but I said that quite often without intending to quote anyone.

                    Damn, but my instincts were screaming at me!

                    Rapscallion

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                    • #11
                      I knew I'd forget something.

                      Going through the brothel (fairly small, actually) and staring at the artwork, the husband of the family from near where I live - in front of his teenage children - said quite brightly, "This gives me some ideas for tonight, dear!"

                      The temperature dropped maybe ten degrees in seconds. I was quite happy about this.

                      Rapscallion

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                      • #12
                        Added a smattering of photos to the slew I took - they're on Facebook (Reginald Arbuthnot Peregrine Scallion if you want to add me).

                        Vesuvius. The hotel clerks advised us to go by car, since the tour buses were overcrowded, late, expensive, and didn't have air conditioning. A few wrong turns with the satnav later, and we got there. There's a car park near the summit after a few miles of really winding road, the road being strewn with eating places and artwork.

                        Plenty of tat shops abounded here, including a place where I bought some more batteries at a reasonable price.

                        The climb to the top was rather slippery due to gravel, but since it wound its way to the top there were plenty of rest spots. You do ascend a long way, though. Some chaps at the bottom just inside the entrance to the trail (it does cost to go in) were handing out walking sticks with a large tray for tips. Part of me thought it was a fairly meagre way to make a living. The other part of me wondered if I could do that. Would I enjoy it or get bored?

                        More tat shops awaited us at the top, and we greedily consumed hugely overpriced drinks before going around the top. There's a natural trail (replete with barriers) around the crater, and we were initially stunned at the size of the place. Cab began to hunt for cheap presents for famiyl and friends, locating the best and nicest rocks for them. He's so cheap! I'm rather surprised he didn't get stung for baggage weight limits on the plane on the way back. I snagged a couple of pebbles.

                        Vesuvius is overdue an eruption by about thirty years, but there's no smoke. Rather morbidly, we made a few guesses as to how badly it would burst, and what the chances of surviving were if we had to run to the car.

                        The view from the top was - quite frankly - incredible. Naples spread out below us, and from the furthest edge of the crater we could see where Pompeii was. My camera really didn't do it justice, but the memories will stay for some time.

                        Heading down, we hit a restaurant of reasonable quality, then headed back to prepare for the back half of the day - Herculaneum.

                        Rapscallion

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